Deciphering Burda Style

Like most sewers, I find it easy to collect sewing magazines. Threads, Vogue Patterns, Stitches, etc. etc. It was the pile of Burda Style that reached a point, it was almost taunting me. Why are you buying $10 magazines, looking at them once, then not using any of the patterns? Well, this may have had something to do with it. The Burda pattern sheets.100_0198 Trying to decipher which lines were the correct pattern in the correct size, then correctly tracing it seemed a little intimidating. Fortunately inspiration intervened. The perfect (at least in my mind) fabric appeared the same time as I had a particular pattern in mind. Finally I had the motivation needed to try the reissue of a vintage dress pattern 141, printed in the December 2012 issue. burda 141 12 12I made the muslin and found I only needed minor changes, shortening the bodice between the shoulder and bust point and the skirt length. I’m short, 5 foot 2, but it seems that the short part is not where patterns show length adjustments. Taking the French Style Jacket class on Pattern Review, with Angela Wolf, helped me figure out I needed to shorten the upper part of a bodice, not the lower part.

I only ran into one problem, the person who cut my fabric cut it off grain. Instead of checking the grain line then cutting, she pulled the layers together. When I laid it out at home and adjusted the layers on the grain lines, each end had a short layer and a long layer, losing almost a quarter yard. Of course this would happen on a Sunday evening. Do I wait and take it back the next day, no I shorten the sleeves a little and sew forward. Lesson learned: pay more attention when having fabric cut, don’t expect everyone to understand the straight of grain, especially in chain stores.

In spite of the minor set back, I was happy with the dress in a happy color.

From Burda Style issue 12, 2012

From Burda Style issue 12, 2012

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2 thoughts on “Deciphering Burda Style

  1. I need help! I downloaded this pattern and now I am trying to figure out the mock fastening on the upper front. Can you give me a hint on the layout of that piece? I am afraid to cut. Something doesn’t look right the way the lines are printed.

    • The pattern piece does seem a little misleading, it looks like the portion where you sew the button will not be big enough, but it is. I’ll email you a couple of photos, maybe they can help.

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